
The Engishiki (延喜式), compiled between 905 and 927 CE during Japan’s Heian period, is a comprehensive legal and procedural text that provides invaluable insights into the societal structures of the time.
Among its 50 volumes, it offers detailed accounts of sake production, classification, and its integral role in both courtly and religious ceremonies, underscoring the beverage’s significance in ancient Japanese culture.
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What Is the Engishiki?

The Engishiki serves as a meticulous compilation of laws and regulations governing various aspects of Heian-era Japan, including rituals, administrative procedures, and daily court life. Initiated under Emperor Daigo’s directive, it was finalized in 927 CE.
The text not only outlines governmental protocols but also delves into cultural practices, with particular attention to food and drink, notably sake.
Sake Varieties Documented in the Engishiki
The Engishiki categorizes several types of sake, reflecting the diversity and sophistication of brewing techniques during the period:
- Seishu (清酒): A clear, filtered sake resembling modern-day varieties.
- Doburoku (濁酒): An unrefined, milky-white sake containing rice solids.
- Nerizake (練酒): A thick, sweet sake made by kneading rice and koji.
- Kijoshu (貴醸酒): A luxurious, sweet sake brewed using sake instead of water, akin to dessert wines.
These classifications indicate a nuanced understanding of brewing processes and a palate appreciative of varied flavor profiles.
State-Controlled Sake Production
The Engishiki details the operations of the Miki no Tsukasa (造酒司), the governmental office responsible for sake production. This bureau oversaw the brewing of sake for imperial ceremonies and religious offerings, ensuring quality and adherence to prescribed methods.
The text specifies ingredients, fermentation techniques, and storage practices, highlighting the state’s role in standardizing and controlling sake production.
Sake’s Role in Religious and Courtly Rituals

Sake held a sacred place in Shinto rituals and imperial ceremonies.
The Engishiki outlines its use as an offering to deities, symbolizing purification and communion between humans and gods. Detailed instructions for brewing and presenting sake during festivals and rites emphasize its ceremonial importance and the meticulous care taken in its preparation.
Conclusion: The Engishiki‘s Legacy in Sake Culture
The Engishiki provides a window into the ceremonial and cultural significance of sake in Heian Japan. Its detailed accounts of brewing practices and ritual uses underscore sake’s role beyond mere consumption—it was a conduit for religious expression and a marker of societal sophistication.
Understanding these historical contexts enriches our appreciation of sake as a cultural artifact that continues to embody Japan’s rich heritage.
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